Each Mile – Episode Two – Into the Heart of Darkness…Washington

Where were we? Ah yes…on a trans-canal trip to Port Townsend, once named the “City of Dreams”. How like real dreams, did everyone wake up and realize a less vivid or prosperous reality. The masses of boats and people never came, and the city that waited to be a city was left as an immaculately built Victorian village.

The bull alone makes me want to smoke

It was night when I arrived. The city was asleep. Lucky for me, my Couch Surfing contact, had seen my ship from the shore and presumed, being that it was the last boat over, that I had to be on it. He picked me and Klalita up in his pick up and we whizzed off into the dark curvatures of the ghost dark tree highway to have dinner with his family. Bread and wine, a perfect lullaby. Waking at a good time in the morning to the sound of barking dogs at my door at Andrew’s dog and llama farm was the perfect alarm. Andrew built all that I saw on his land from the ground up. He was an actor too, a worldly, interesting, caring, family man of many different hats and he wore them all quite comfortably. I set off on my naked Klalita into town, passed the natural rock cliff that the main street buildings seamed to lazily rest on. Cute shops, cafes and even an ol’ movie theatre gave me a very Bohemian sense of the place. The coffee shop was what you’d expect when you see Tibetan flags at the window, full of coffees from foreign fair trade lands and loooooot of cookies that had ingredients that make baked goods for old people instead of the intended younger audiences. Oh…and there was no music store, only a record store with the owner’s fixie sitting at the front.

Veggie Truck, circa a long time ago

I started at the museum, where the curator gave me the town’s history. Nice gentleman who yearned for an audience, so I lent him my ear for close to half an hour. Well worth it, he knew it all and could answer all my questions. He also talked about the city’s prostitution history as if it were a major focal point, which was alright by me. The best displays were the odd things. An old funeral cart, a section on comic books and my personal favourite, a list of alternative names for a house of ill intent. After the museum, I walked in no direction in particular to look at some of the wonderful Victorian architecture the city has. I returned to Andrew’s just as the sun was dipping behind the trees. I played games with his kids on the jungle gym and pet the llamas, carefully.

One of many Victorian dreams in Port Townsend

Andrew had a wonderfully interesting life that you’ll just have to surf with him to fully appreciate it. A man of the land, the type of man I saw as a child played by John Wayne, but less racist and more emotionally connected to things and people he loved. The next day, I waved goodbye, drank some fresh squeezed orange (compliments of his son’s amazing juicing skills), squeezed past the heavy tubing welded dirt white gate and off down the road to Sequim.

The view to Sequim

Suddenly bam. I needed a bathroom. 5 or so k later I found one. I never made that mistake…..on this continent again.

Sequim, I arrived during a day shy of the Irrigation Festival, which apparently involved a produce throwing competition. Damnit, something I’ve always regretted missing. My couch surfer that night was a wonderful mother, who packed my panniers full of chocolate bars and energy bars. Her dog, Savvy, watched with curiosity as I ate food and glugged down a tall, red plastic glass of milk. TV, it’s glow I hadn’t seen in a while. Meh, it didn’t interest me and I soon was under the “In God We Trust” covers and fast asleep.

A water tower at the end of the road

The hardest ride was just ahead…and…well….I don’t want to spoil your appetites. Enjoy!:

PHOTO OF THE DAY – A Paradise Cruise Lost

Early in the morning. The sun didn’t wake the travellers on the eight hour night ferry from Greece to Italy. The lack of heat and comfortable places to rest is the real guilty party. But this ferry seems to be almost tradition, something you don’t question. So people try their best dog impersonations, spin around multiple times, scratch, yawn in annoyance and collapse in a huff. For me, being on vacation, I didn’t mind it all. I could only vaguely imagine what this would be like as a regular commute.

The very best ferry from Greece to Italy

Last Supper – Originally Posted 04/15/2010

“Art is the only way to run away without leaving home.”

-Twyla Tharp

I’d add though, as a method of running away, art cannot suffice a soul in its entirety.

Today I stand upon a precipice looking over at a deep blue sea of unknown and the height alone freaks the shit out of me. Wow…that is one fuckin’ long drop, but bottoms up, here we go. Over the past few days (and nights, my body really won’t let me sleep through all this excitement) I have sat down with pictures, notes, postcards and a plethora of other self memorabilia and in silence and have been in utter awe of what a remarkably awesome life I have had so far.


A pre-bike meal at 3 AM. Mcdix and Sushi are necessary.


There are so many little details about living in Vancouver for 26 years that as science would dictate, if even a minutia of an inch or second was incorrect, would not occur. So many gorgeous souls I have had the pleasure of talking to, of loving, of drinking until our eyes are useless and we tumble into piles of laughter and of dancing when no music is playing.

That’s all the cheese I have…but you know it’s true and you know who you are and you should know how you have shaped me, for better or worse, into this gulumfing jabberwocky of a man.  Stress is picking up at a rapid pace, I have about 1 million things I need to do today that I should have done several decades ago. But days should reflect good pies, over stuffed with good flavour and by flavour I mean in this instance a multitude of various chores. Lets say I just have a lot of flavours to taste today. That sounds nice.


Just in case you couldn't tell, it's a BIG MAC.


I won’t get into the bitter details, but some cool things are going to happen on my trip and I won’t break wind until they actually happen. Break wind is not an especially good term to describe my surprises, but meh. The highlight of my day will be going into the bike shop where it takes me hours simply to place the bike on a stand to work on it. I am no mechanic and am as about dexterous a horse’s hoof, but something about going into the “shop” to work on my “bike” makes me at least have the aura of coolness.

Welp, I probs should go rather than dialoguing with myself on wordpress. Do read people, it will be my link to you, as my computer is going on the road with me. Pictures will be uploaded as well and if possible, video clips of my journeys.

The next message will be sent from Bellingham, fingers crossed.


Just had to get that out.

Payce I